Saint Laurent Dazzles at Paris Fashion Week
At the heart of Paris Fashion Week, under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent unveiled its winter collection, presenting a captivating evolution of the brand’s aesthetic. The Tuesday runway show was a masterclass in the art of refinement and subtlety, where Vaccarello chose to redefine the label’s traditional silhouettes through a lens of minimalism and sensuality. The collection stood as a testament to the designer’s innovative vision, marrying the timeless elegance of Saint Laurent with contemporary flair.
The venue itself, comprised of two expansive, circular chambers adorned with lush green drapery, set the stage for a display of fashion that was as much about the ambiance as it was about the garments. Models navigated the heart of this meticulously curated space, their presence amplified by the towering sling-back heels that elevated them above the crowd. Vaccarello’s choice of sheer silk dresses in understated hues encapsulated the theme of refined sensuality, wrapping the models in a veil of muted luxury. These transparent creations played with the notions of visibility and concealment, artfully revealing high-waisted underwear beneath. The precision of the cut not only elongated the thighs but also introduced a sharp, dynamic silhouette, further accentuated by slender belts that cinched at the waist.
The collection’s inventiveness was highlighted through an array of tops that elegantly coiled around the neck, alongside pussy bow blouses and structured bustiers. Skirts, consistent in length and cut just below the knees, balanced the collection’s overall aesthetic, maintaining a classic linearity amidst the novelty of design. The show notes, thoughtfully placed in envelopes on each seat, likened the collection to the iconic “naked” gown famously worn by Marilyn Monroe, drawing a parallel to the sheer, revealing nature of the pieces showcased.
Diversity in texture and form was introduced through the incorporation of luxurious furry coats, crafted from ultralight feathers. These pieces created a striking contrast against the fitted silhouettes of the sheer dresses, adding a layer of complexity and depth to the collection. Simon Longland, the director of buying at Harrods in London, praised the collection for its “bursting juxtapositions,” noting the seamless blend of conservative styling with a slinky, provocative allure. The ensemble presented a dialogue between the demure and the daring, encapsulating the multifaceted identity of the modern Saint Laurent woman.
Photos by Gonzalo Fuentes
